Wednesday, February 01, 2023

Serious Eats: Ganach Lupia (Armenian Braised Green Beans)


I don't know what it was about this recipe, but as soon as I saw it, I wanted to make it.  Maybe it was something to do with the lamb.  Or the slow cooked green beans in tomato sauce.  Whatever it was, it fit right into my decision to make something that didn't take much hands on time.  And I was well rewarded - the green beans are tender, the lamb melts in your mouth.

Note: I used mild biber salçasi pepper paste that I found on Amazon, but honestly, I'd probably go with hot next time.  Also, I did not cut every single green in half lengthwise.  With two pounds to clean, it would have taken me half of forever.  It still turned out delicious.

Ganach Lupia (Armenian Braised Green Beans)
From Serious Eats

2 pounds bone-in lamb shoulder chops, 1 to 1½ inches thick
2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
1 (14½-ounce) can whole peeled plum tomatoes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 small yellow onion (about 7 ounces), finely chopped
¼ teaspoon baking soda
4 garlic cloves, minced
4 anchovy fillets
2 tablespoons mild or hot biber salçasi pepper paste
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1½ cups water
2 pounds green beans, trimmed and halved lengthwise
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 cup Greek yogurt
Rice pilaf, for serving

Preheat oven with rack set in middle position to 325°F. While oven heats, using a sharp knife, remove bones from chops, leaving meat in large chunks and leaving behind any segments of meat clinging to bones. Cut boneless pieces into 1-inch chunks and trim of excess fat. Place meat and bones in a bowl and toss with salt and pepper. Let stand at room temperature for at least 40 minutes and up to 2 hours. Meanwhile, place tomatoes and their juices in a second bowl, crush coarsely with a pastry cutter or chop with a pair of kitchen shears, and set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add boneless lamb pieces and cook, turning occasionally, until lamb is well browned on 2 sides, about 10 minutes. Return lamb to bowl with bones and set aside.

Add onion and baking soda to Dutch oven and cook, stirring frequently, until softened but not browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add garlic and anchovies and cook, stirring and breaking up anchovies occasionally with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, until anchovies have dissolved, about 4 minutes. Add pepper paste, tomato paste, and allspice, stir to combine with allium-anchovy mixture, and continue to cook until mixture turns dark brick red, 2 to 4 minutes longer.

Add lamb, lamb bones, water, and tomatoes to Dutch oven and stir to combine. Cover, and transfer to oven. Bake for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Stir in green beans, cover, and return to oven. Cook until meat is very tender, 1½ to 2 hours.

Stirring gently to avoid crushing beans, add 1 tablespoon parsley and season with additional salt to taste. Transfer to serving bowl, top with remaining parsley, and serve, with yogurt and rice pilaf on side.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

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