Monday, July 27, 2020

NY Times: Cauliflower Gratin with Leeks and White Cheddar


I'm really desperately trying to eat more of my meals at home, and as part of that effort, I've been ordering more vegetables in my groceries.  However, when dinner time is looming, the prospect of having to put together something complicated (like hollandaise sauce!) is a bit overwhelming.  This is actually a super simple way to slap together some cauliflower and cheese, but it also has the benefit of using up any spare leeks you have lying around.

Cauliflower Gratin with Leeks and White Cheddar
From NY Times Cooking

1 small-ish head cauliflower (about 2 pounds), green leaves removed
Olive oil, for drizzling
1 small leek, white and light green part only, very thinly sliced
Kosher salt and black pepper
¾ cup heavy cream
6 ounces sharp white Cheddar, grated (about 1½ cups)

Heat oven to 425°F. Slice cauliflower head lengthwise into ½-inch thick slices, including the core and leaves. (Some smaller bits will fall away: That’s fine. You’ll use them as well.)

Drizzle some olive oil onto the bottom of a 2-quart baking dish. (An oval, square or rectangular dish will all work.) Layer about a third of the cauliflower along the bottom, and about a third of the leeks. Season with salt and pepper, and repeat until all of the cauliflower and leeks are used. (Don’t worry about perfectly layering them.) Season with salt and pepper and drizzle cream over. Scatter cheese on top, and season again with salt and pepper. Lightly cover with foil and place in the oven.

Bake until cauliflower is nearly tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove foil and continue to bake until cream has thickened and reduced nearly completely and the top is golden brown and crisp, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool slightly before eating.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Sunday, July 26, 2020

The Splendid Table: Salt-Cured Egg Yolks


I started making these egg yolks a week ago, but with the long rest in the refrigerator, these are a week-long project.  Luckily most of that time is just waiting for them to do their thing.  This is a great way to use up extra yolks that you have laying around, because they can definitely substitute for cheese when you need a little umami boost.  And look at that beautiful color!

Salt-Cured Egg Yolks
From America's Test Kitchen as seen on The Splendid Table

1 pound kosher salt
1 pound granulated sugar
12 large eggs

Pulse salt and sugar in food processor until evenly mixed and slightly ground, about 14 pulses. (Alternatively, salt and sugar can be processed in blender on high speed until evenly mixed and slightly ground, about 30 seconds.) Transfer 14 ounces salt mixture to 8-inch square baking pan and shake pan to create even layer. Using whole, in-shell egg, make 12 evenly spaced ¼-inch-deep indentations in salt bed by pressing bottom of egg gently into salt mixture.

Working with 1 egg at a time, crack eggs, separate yolks from whites, and transfer yolks to indentations in salt bed. Carefully pour remaining salt mixture evenly over yolks. Wrap pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate until yolks are firm and dry throughout, 6 to 7 days.

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200°F. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Fill medium bowl with cool water. Remove yolks from salt mixture, brushing off excess, and rinse gently in water. Pat yolks dry with paper towels and transfer to wire rack. Transfer sheet to oven and bake until exteriors of yolks are dry to touch, 30 to 40 minutes.

Grate or thinly slice yolks and sprinkle on your favorite dishes, from pasta and risotto to roasted vegetables and buttered toast. You use them almost like you would a hard cheese. They add a nice and nutty, deeply umami flavor.  Cured yolks can be refrigerated in airtight container for up to 2 weeks.  The yolks can also be frozen, though the time they last depends on many factors. The water activity in a properly cured and dried yolk is so low that they hardly ever spoil after months of hanging out in the fridge.

Monday, July 20, 2020

Tasty: Potato Wedges


I feel like there are two kinds of fry people.  Those who think the thin, super crispy fried at McDonald's are the best it gets.  And those who like their potato products with some actual potato in the middle.  If you're one of the latter, you probably appreciate a good potato wedge, because it gives you the great potato center while also having a super tasty crisp seasoning coat.  These wedges are baked, not fried, but they're still a great option.

Note: Normally I'm not a huge fan, but this is the time to use the grated cheese in the green plastic shake container.

Potato Wedges
Adapted from Tasty

1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon paprika
4 large russet potatoes
⅓ cup vegetable oil
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 400°F. Combine salt, pepper, garlic powder, oregano, and paprika and stir well.

Thoroughly wash potatoes, cut in half lengthwise, and slice into wedges.  Toss wedges into a gallon size Ziploc bag, then pour over oil.  Shake in seasonings and cheese, then seal the bag and toss thoroughly until the potato wedges are well coated.  Place wedges on a baking sheet, skin side down.  Bake 40 to 50 minutes.

Makes 4 servings

The Stay at Home Chef: Homemade Sloppy Joes


As a kid, I remember eating sloppy joes on a semi-regular basis, but they were always out of a can mix.  Anyone else experience Manwich?  (As a girl, I always wondered about that name.)  As an adult, I couldn't figure out why we needed a can of sauce to make something that seemed pretty basic on the face of it.  So I started looking for a recipe, and finally ended up with this one.  This actually comes surprisingly close to what Manwich tastes like, minus all of the chemical preservatives.  And the best part is toasting the bun in butter.  I never did that as a child, but it makes all the difference.

Homemade Sloppy Joes
Adapted from The Stay at Home Chef

1 pound ground beef
1 medium onion, diced
1 medium green bell pepper, diced
1 large carrot, finely grated
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce
1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
2½ tablespoons packed brown sugar
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground mustard
½ teaspoon chili powder
8 hamburger buns

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, cook ground beef and onion together, stirring occasionally, until beef is browned and cooked through. Drain any excess fat from the skillet and return skillet to heat. Add in bell pepper, carrot, garlic, tomato sauce, tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce, apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, salt, ground mustard, and chili powder. Stir to combine.  Add ¼ cup water and stir.

Bring to a simmer and reduce heat to medium low. Simmer for 15 to 30 minutes. Simmering time depends on how crisp you want the vegetables.

Serve meat hot on toasted buns.

Makes 8 servings

Sunday, July 19, 2020

Nordicware: Angel Food Cake with Lemon Cream and Strawberries


My sister's chickens are working overtime.  And I get to benefit from all of that hard work they put in every day.  But there's only so many eggs you can eat at one time, unless you make a quiche.  Or......something more delicious with sugar.  Since I had a plan for the egg yolks that went with these egg whites, I decided cake was definitely the way to go.  This cake is super soft, smells divine, and works really well with the lemon whipped cream.  Plus, it's light and cool for summer.

Note: I was lazy.  I decided not to make layers.  I just glopped the lemon cream and strawberries on top.  And it was still delicious.

Angel Food Cake with Lemon Cream and Strawberries
Adapted from Nordicware

Cake:
1 cup sifted cake flour
3 cups powdered sugar, divided use
12 egg whites
1½ teaspoons cream of tartar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¾ teaspoon vanilla extract
¾ teaspoon almond extract

Lemon Cream:
2 cups heavy cream
½ cup powdered sugar
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 cups fresh strawberries
Lemon twists, for garnish

Heat oven to 375°F.

In a medium bowl, sift flour and 1½ cups powdered sugar together; set aside.

In a large bowl, beat egg whites with cream of tartar, salt, vanilla extract, and almond extract until soft peaks form.  Gradually add remaining 1½ cups powdered sugar, beating until stiff peaks form.  Sift ¼ of the flour mixture over the egg whites; fold in.  Repeat, sifting and folding ¼ of the flour mixture at a time, until all flour mixture has been folded in.  Pour into an ungreased 10-inch tube pan.

Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until golden brown and cracks are dry.  Immediately invert pan.  Cool completely.  Remove cake from pan.  Slice in half horizontally.  Set aside.

In a medium bowl, beat heavy cream until soft peaks form.  Gradually add powdered sugar, beating until stiff peaks form.  Fold in lemon peel and juice.  Spread whipped cream over layers and sprinkle with berries.  Garnish with lemon twists and berries.

Makes 12 to 16 servings

Saturday, July 04, 2020

Tuna Towers


My six year old nephew was asked what he wanted to eat for his birthday.  And what did this child say?  Not hamburgers.  No sirree.  He said TUNA TOWERS.  I'm not sure why I'm surprised, since I was there when he was much younger, stuffing sushi in his face while the server at the restaurant looked on open-mouthed.  But that request meant that someone would have to make said tuna towers.  So after much googling and scrutinizing of pictures, I came up with this.  And it was actually pretty delicious.

Note: I used a 3-inch tall by 3-inch diameter round mold that I got on Amazon, but any similarly sized mold would work.  Also, if you can't find kizami nori, you could use sesame seeds, masago/tobiko, or fried wonton chips as a topping instead.

Tuna Towers

Sushi rice
½ cup Kewpie mayonnaise
2 tablespoons sriracha
1 to 2 tablespoons prepared wasabi paste
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 pound crab meat, picked over to remove shell bits
1 pound sushi-grade raw tuna, cut into ½-inch cubes
2 to 3 teaspoons sesame oil
Kosher salt, to taste
3 avocados, cut into ½-inch cubes
Kizami nori (shredded seaweed)

Make the sushi rice per the recipe and set aside until time to put the tuna towers together.

Combine the mayonnaise and sriracha until well mixed; this is your spicy mayonnaise.  Set aside.  Combine wasabi paste, heavy cream, and soy sauce until a thick sauce is formed; this is your wasabi cream sauce.  Set aside.

In a small bowl, combine the crab meat with about half of the spicy mayonnaise, adding additional if necessary.  You want to make sure you have enough spicy mayonnaise left to serve on the side while still making sure the crab is well-coated.  Set aside.

Combine the cubed raw tuna with the sesame oil and salt, mixing well.  The tuna should just be glistening; you don't need to coat it in sesame oil.  Set aside.

To make the tuna towers, using a round mold, wipe the metal mold very lightly with vegetable or sesame oil and place it on the serving plate.  Spoon in a layer of sushi rice, then crab, then avocado, then tuna on top.  Each layer should be about ¼ of the height of the mold.  Press lightly on each layer as you build.  To remove the mold, press lightly on the tuna layer with the back of a spoon while grasp the mold and pulling up with your other hand.  The oil should allow the mold to slow slide off, leaving the tower behind.  Top with nori shreds, and garnish with additional spicy mayonnaise and the wasabi cream sauce.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Tuesday, June 30, 2020

Leite's Culinaria: Shrimp and Leek Pasta


Lately it's been all about the fast dishes in my house.  My work seems to have expanded all of the extra hours of the day, and you can only order Uber Eats so many times before your wallet starts to cry.  Thus, this pasta.  It's actually based on a similar pasta made with sausage (that also sounds like it would be amazing), and even though the ingredients are pretty simple, it's a powerhouse of flavor.  Just use the best ingredients you can find, and sit back and enjoy.

Note: I did not use a full pound of pasta, just 8 ounces.  Pasta sits like a brick in my stomach, so I like my dishes more protein-heavy.  To each his own, but if you go my route, it's still delicious.

Shrimp and Leek Pasta
From Leite's Culinaria, as adapted from "Bow Ties with Sausage and Leek Sauce" by Lidia Bastianich

2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 pound tagliatelle
2 large leeks
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound medium shrimp, shelled and deveined
1 teaspoon minced shallot
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup homemade chicken stock or canned chicken broth
⅓ cup grated pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for table
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Bring 6 quarts water to a boil and add the 2 tablespoons salt.

Add the tagliatelle to the boiling water, stirring with a wooden spoon. If the pasta is fresh, it will be done as soon as the water returns to a boil. Otherwise, boil for 2 minutes, turn off the heat, and let the tagliatelle sit for the remaining time specified on the package.

Meanwhile, trim the root ends from the leeks and discard the tough green portions (roughly the top ⅓). Slice the remaining pale green and white portions of the leeks into ½-inch-thick rounds and rinse in several changes of cold water to remove any grit. Rinse and drain well.

In a sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil. Toss in the shrimp and quickly cook, stirring only occasionally, for 2 minutes. The shrimp will be almost but not quite cooked through. Transfer the shrimp to a plate.

In the sauté pan, heat the remaining oil over medium-high heat. Add the leeks and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 5 minutes. You may need to reduce the heat to medium if the leeks are turning brown.

Add the shallot and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the butter and stock and simmer gently for 3 minutes. Add the shrimp and simmer an additional minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Drain the pasta well and return it to the pot or transfer it to a serving dish. Add the shrimp and leek sauce and gently toss to coat the pasta. Sprinkle with the pecorino Romano cheese, toss well, and serve with plenty of additional pecorino passed on the side.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Thursday, June 18, 2020

Bon Appétit: Pan-Seared Scallops with Corn and Chorizo


I love scallops.  If there is a scallop option on the menu, you're going to be hard pressed to convince me to order otherwise.  But because of their delicate nature, I've steered away from making them at home.  Too hard to get that perfect sear, I thought.  But when I saw this recipe, with all the delicious summer things in it, I knew I had to give it a try.  And it's really not that hard if you have a well-seasoned cast iron pan.  The corn is tangy, and the chorizo adds the perfect balance.

Pan-Seared Scallops with Corn and Chorizo
From Bon Appétit, September 2018

3 ears of corn, husked
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided use
2 ounces smoked Spanish chorizo, finely chopped
12 scallions, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
½ to 1 serrano chile (depending on heat), finely chopped
¾ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more
1 cup buttermilk
⅓ cup chopped cilantro
12 large sea scallops (about 1 pound), side muscle removed, patted dry
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 lime, halved
Lime wedges (for serving)

Cut kernels from corncobs and place in a medium bowl. Using the back of a chef’s knife, scrape milk from cobs into the bowl; discard cobs.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a medium saucepan over medium. Cook chorizo, stirring occasionally, until it starts to get crisp, about 2 minutes. Carefully pour chorizo oil into a small bowl (use a slotted spoon to hold back chorizo); set chorizo oil aside. Return chorizo pan to medium heat and add scallions, garlic, chile, 1 tablespoon olive oil, and ¾ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add corn kernels and cook, stirring occasionally, until bright yellow and softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat and let corn mixture cool in pan 5 minutes. Gently mix in buttermilk and cilantro. Taste and season with more salt if needed.

Season scallops generously with salt. Heat reserved chorizo oil and remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high until just beginning to smoke. Cook scallops on one side, reducing heat if they are taking on too much color and moving around in pan for even browning, until a golden brown crust forms on the bottom, about 3 minutes.

Reduce heat to medium-low and turn scallops over. Add butter to skillet and, using a spoon, baste scallops with butter 30 seconds. Transfer scallops to a plate. Squeeze halved lime over.

Divide corn mixture among plates and arrange scallops on top. Serve with lime wedges for squeezing over.

Makes 4 servings

Friday, June 05, 2020

America's Most Wanted Recipes - Just Desserts: Bananas Foster Cheesecake


I remember getting this cheesecake every time I went to Red Lobster with my family.  It got to the point that I really just wanted the Cheddar Bay biscuits and this.  Did I really have to eat my dinner?  And that's saying something, because seafood and I are old friends.  The cheesecake serving at Red Lobster was much fancier than what's pictured above, complete with actual bananas foster on top and a mess of whipped cream, but I just wanted to get to the good part as fast as possible.

Note: The original recipe included lemon juice in the cake batter, but it made the cheesecake have this overly sour profile.  I think it would be just fine without.

Bananas Foster Cheesecake
Adapted from America's Most Wanted Recipes - Just Desserts

Pecan Crust
¾ cup finely chopped pecans
¾ cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
3 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted

Banana Cheesecake
4 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened
3 large eggs
4 or 5 ripe bananas, pureed
1 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons dark rum
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon banana extract
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1¼ cups granulated sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch

Sour Cream Topping
1 cup sour cream
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Caramel-Rum Sauce
1 (17-ounce) jar caramel sauce
¼ cup dark rum

Garnish
2 ripe bananas, cut into ¼-inch slices

Preheat oven to 350°F.

To make the crust, combine the chopped pecans, flour, both sugars, and the vanilla extract.  Pour in the melted butter and stir to moisten all the ingredients.  Press the mixture evenly across the bottom and halfway up the sides of a 9-inch springform pan.  Fashion a strip of heavy-duty foil 3 inches high and wrap it around the pan.

To make the cheesecake, beat the softened cream cheese with an electric mixer until smooth and creamy.  Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.  Add the remaining ingredients; mix until well combined.  Spoon the mixture into the prepared crust and put the foil-wrapped pan into a larger roasting pan.  Fill the roasting pan with enough hot water to come 1 inch up the sides of the springform pan.

Bake in the center of the oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes to 1 hour and 20 minutes, until the cake is just set in the center.  Remove the cake from the water bath and set it aside - do not turn off the oven.

To make the sour cream topping, whisk together all ingredients, blending well.  Spread the mixture over the top of the cheesecake.  Set the cake directly on the rack in the center of the oven and bake for 10 minutes, or just until set.  Turn off the heat and let the cake cool inside the oven.

Wrap the cooled cheesecake, still in the pan, in plastic and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

To make the caramel-rum sauce and serve the cake, remove the plastic wrap and foil from around the springform pan and release the ring from the sides.  Transfer the cake to a large dessert platter.

Heat the caramel sauce in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring to loosen it up.  Stir the rum into the caramel and whisk to blend it with the sauce.  Drizzle some of the sauce over the cake, then arrange the sliced bananas over the top.  Serve with extra caramel-rum sauce on the side.

Makes 10 servings

Wednesday, June 03, 2020

Leite's Culinaria: Cauliflower Cheese


While I do enjoy cauliflower on its own, sometimes, sorta, it's infinitely better with a sauce of some sort.  I often employ hollandaise, but I think it's equally delicious with cheese.  This kind of preparation seems to have a vaguely British feel to it, although my favorite casserole is basically this with broccoli also, and I'm sure that recipe came from the back of some package.  But judge not by the past, only by the tender cheesy bits on your fork.

Cauliflower Cheese
Adapted from Leite's Culinaria

2 pounds cauliflower, cut into florets
½ cup heavy cream
2 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
½ cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Set a large pot of water over high heat and bring to a boil. Add the cauliflower and cook until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain in a colander.

In the same pot over medium heat, mix together the cream, cream cheese, butter, mustard, paprika, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring, until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the Cheddar and Monterey Jack cheese and stir until the cheese is melted and the mixture is smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the cauliflower until completely coated in the sauce. Transfer to a large dish, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.

Makes 4 to 6 servings