Le Cirque: Spaghetti Primavera

Ever since I had some sort of boxed pasta primavera salad as a child and enjoyed it, I've wondered what exactly makes something "primavera".  So I looked up the word, and primavera means the season of spring.  So it makes sense that this dish includes all sorts of lovely vegetables that can be found in the springtime.  But I couldn't make just any old pasta primavera.  I needed to find the original, the ultimate, the one that started all of our silly primavera fantasies.  And not shockingly, this Italian-American pasta dish comes from Le Cirque in New York City, a French restaurant started by an Italian.  That's not a confusing background or anything.  But history lessons aside, I can guarantee this is a delicious dish to make when the green is starting to appear and the coats go back in the closet.

Note:  I think you can pretty safely use whatever spring vegetables float your boat.  I added fiddlehead ferns and ramps to mine, as they seem like the ultimate spring veggies in a land where asparagus seems to grow all year long.  For the chili I used a Fresno, but I definitely think I could have gone hotter.  Also, I used linguine, not spaghetti.  Not that it matters.

Spaghetti Primavera
From Le Cirque restaurant, as appeared in The New York Times, 1977

1 bunch broccoli
2 small zucchini, unpeeled
4 asparagus spears
1½ cups green beans
Salt
½ cup fresh or frozen peas
¾ cup fresh or frozen sugar snap pea pods
1 tablespoon peanut, vegetable, or corn oil
2 cups thinly sliced mushrooms
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon minced hot red or green chili, or ½ teaspoon dried red-pepper flakes
¼ cup finely chopped parsley
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon minced garlic
3 cups 1-inch tomato cubes
6 basil leaves, chopped
1 pound spaghetti
4 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons chicken broth
½ cup heavy cream, approximately
½ cup grated Parmesan
⅓ cup toasted pine nuts

Trim broccoli and break into florets. Trim off ends of the zucchini. Cut into quarters, then cut into 1-inch or slightly longer lengths (about 1½ cups). Cut each asparagus into 2-inch pieces. Trim beans and cut into 1-inch pieces.

Cook each of the green vegetables separately in boiling salted water to cover until crisp but tender. Drain well, then run under cold water to chill, and drain again thoroughly. Combine the cooked vegetables in a bowl.

Cook the peas and pods; about 1 minute if fresh; 30 seconds if frozen. Drain, chill with cold water and drain again. Combine with the vegetables.

In a skillet over medium-high heat, heat the peanut oil and add the mushrooms. Season to taste. Cook about 2 minutes, shaking the skillet and stirring. Add the mushrooms, chili, and parsley to the vegetables.

Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a saucepan and add half the garlic, tomatoes, salt and pepper. Cook about 4 minutes. Add the basil.

Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet and add the remaining garlic and the vegetable mixture. Cook, stirring gently, until heated through.

Cook the spaghetti in boiling salted water until almost (but not quite) tender, retaining a slight resilience in the center. Drain well.

In a pot large enough to hold the spaghetti and vegetables, add the butter and melt over medium-low heat. Then add the chicken broth and half a cup each of cream and cheese, stirring constantly. Cook gently until smooth. Add the spaghetti and toss quickly to blend. Add half the vegetables and pour in the liquid from the tomatoes, tossing over very low heat.

Add the remaining vegetables. If the sauce seems dry, add 3 to 4 tablespoons more cream. Add the pine nuts and give the mixture a final tossing.

Serve equal portions of the spaghetti mixture in hot soup or spaghetti bowls. Spoon equal amounts of the tomatoes over each serving. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 as a main course; 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

Bon Appétit: Iced Turmeric Latte

When I saw this fun yellow drink in my food magazine, I was drawn to it immediately.  Turmeric has all these great health benefits, so why not turn it into something else I love...an iced latte!  Seems perfect.  Except...it's not.  This drink is not good.  It's not in the least bit sweet, and it tastes like some sort of bad herbal medicine.  And after I went out of my way to find cashew milk and fresh turmeric root!!  Maybe it's good if you're just that crazy about getting some fresh turmeric in your diet, but personally I'll stick with Indian food.

Iced Turmeric Latte
From Bon Appétit magazine, April 2016

1 cup cashew milk
4 teaspoons finely grated fresh turmeric
2 teaspoons finely grated palm sugar or raw sugar
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
2 pinches of ground cardamom
Pinch of flaky sea salt
Lemon wedge (for serving)

Whisk milk, turmeric, palm sugar, ginger, lemon juice, cardamom, and salt in a small bowl until sugar and salt have dissolved; let sit 5 minutes to let flavors meld. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a measuring cup, pressing on solids to extract juices; discard solids.

Fill a glass with ice. Pour latte over and serve with lemon wedge.

Makes 1 latte

Jalapeño Margarita

What do you do when it's Cinco de Mayo, and you don't get off work until 7pm?  You rush home and make yourself a big 'ol margarita and drink it on your porch as the sun goes down, that's what.  Because let's be honest.  Any margarita made in the comfort of your own kitchen is going to be better than whatever dribbles out of the machine at your local Tex-Mex restaurant.  Warning: this puppy is strong.

Jalapeño Margarita

2 ounces fresh squeezed lime juice (about 2 limes)
2 tablespoons agave nectar
2 ounces good tequila
1 ounce Grand Marnier
½ ounce jalapeño liqueur (or more, to taste)

Combine all ingredients and pour over ice into a margarita glass.  Drink and enjoy.

Stuffed Squash Blossoms

Guess what I found at the grocery store this weekend??  Squash blossoms!  I've wanted to play with these for the longest time, but it seems like I always miss the season.  Not this year!  And after playing around online looking up every squash blossom recipe known to man, I decided to just throw a bunch of yummy stuff together and see what happened.  What resulted was good, pretty tasty, but I just felt like the blossoms got lost.  The filling was good, and the batter was crispy, but it seemed a waste of such a fragile tidbit.  I think I may become a fan of raw stuffed squash blossoms.

Stuffed Squash Blossoms

8 ounces whole milk ricotta
½ cup grated Parmesan
1 large egg yolk
Grated rind of ½ lemon
2 cloves black garlic, mashed
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
½ teaspoon sea salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
12 squash blossoms, rinsed and stamen removed
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon sea salt
¼ teaspoon paprika
1 cup club soda
Canola oil, for frying
Pesto or tomato sauce, for serving

Combine ricotta, Parmesan, egg yolk, lemon rind, garlic, basil, and salt and pepper in a medium bowl.  Spoon into a quart-size Ziploc bag, and cut a corner off of the bag.  Squeeze the filling down towards the cut corner and pipe the filling down into each blossom, leaving about an inch of petals exposed at the top.  Twist the exposed petals to close the blossoms.  Set aside.

Combine the flour, salt, and paprika.  Whisk in the club soda until a smooth batter forms.

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat with about an inch of oil in the bottom.  When oil is hot, dip each stuffed blossom down into the batter until completed covered, then lightly tap off excess.  Lay in the hot oil and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, or until light brown.  When the first side of the blossom has browned, flip it over to finish cooking on the other side, another 3 to 5 minutes.  Remove the browned blossoms from the pan and drain on a paper towel.  Serve with pesto or tomato sauce.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Bon Appétit: Tapioca Pearl Pudding

I think the only time I've ever tried tapioca pudding is one time at a Chinese buffet.  I'm not sure why we never ate it when I was a child, although I seem to remember my mother making yuck faces when my dad would order it out.  I think I just assumed it was some weird thing my dad ate and left it at that.  But then I saw a pretty picture of it in a magazine, and I started wondering exactly why I hadn't experimented with this sugary delight.  I managed to find a pack of tapioca pearls at the grocery store, so I whipped up a batch.  Guess what?  Nothing weird.  It tastes just like rice pudding.  Almost the same consistency, too.  Not sure what the all the yuck faces were for.  This is going in the rotation.

Tapioca Pearl Pudding
Adapted from Bon Appétit magazine, February 2015

2 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon nonfat dry milk powder
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
⅓ cup small pearl tapioca (not instant or quick-cooking)
⅓ cup granulated sugar
1 large egg yolk, beaten to blend
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste
Freshly grated nutmeg (for serving)

Whisk milk, cream, milk powder, and salt in a medium saucepan; add tapioca and let sit 30 minutes to hydrate.

Add sugar to tapioca mixture and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring often, until the consistency of a thick soup, 10 to 12 minutes. Whisk in egg yolk and cook, stirring occasionally, 2 minutes (it will thicken slightly). Let cool, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes.

Divide among small glasses. Chill pudding until cold (it will thicken), at least 2 hours.  Serve topped with nutmeg.

Makes 6 servings

Country Living: Hot Cross Buns

I've never made hot cross buns, but it's never too late to remedy that, right?  I even did my research.  Versions of this bun have been around since at least Queen Elizabeth I's time, and possibly dating back to before Christianity.  That's pretty impressive.  The ones they make in the UK and Australia normally have a cross of flour and oil piped on the top before it's baked, but here in the US, we like our buns with actual frosting on top.  It's like a delicious little raisin bread bun, and my nephew snapped his up and cried for more, so I guess these pass muster.  Definitely try them toasted and buttered the next day.

Hot Cross Buns
Adapted from Country Living, June 2007

1 cup half-and-half, warmed to between 105°F and 115°F

1 (¼-ounce) package dry active yeast (about 2¼ teaspoons)

1 teaspoon barley malt syrup (or granulated sugar)
3 cups bread flour

1¼ cups all-purpose flour

¾ cup granulated sugar
½ cup currants (or raisins)
2 tablespoons candied lemon peel
2 tablespoons candied orange peel
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves

⅛ teaspoon ground allspice

Pinch of ground star anise
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste or pure vanilla extract
1 large egg yolk

Icing
⅔ cup confectioners' sugar
1 tablespoon whole milk
¼ teaspoon vanilla bean paste or pure vanilla extract

Make the dough:
Coat a large bowl with oil and set aside. Combine the half-and-half, yeast, and barley malt syrup in a small bowl and let stand until bubbly. Combine the flours, sugar, currants, candied peels, salt, and spices in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a dough hook (or in a large mixing bowl) and mix on low speed. Add the butter, eggs, vanilla bean paste, and the yeast mixture, and continue to mix until a sticky dough forms, about 3 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead by hand until smooth, about 5 minutes. (If dough has been combined by hand, increase kneading time to 10 minutes.) Form the dough into a ball, place it in the prepared bowl, and turn to coat all sides with oil. Cover with a clean, damp kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place until it doubles in volume -- about 1 hour.

Shape the buns:
Line a 9x13-inch baking pan with parchment paper and set aside. Punch the dough down, transfer to a lightly floured surface, and knead for 3 minutes. Divide the dough into 12 equal-sized pieces, about 4 ounces each. Shape each piece into a ball and place the balls about 1 inch apart in three rows of four on the prepared pan. Cover and let rise until the buns double in volume and touch one another, about 1¼ hours.

Bake the buns:
Preheat oven to 500°F. In a small bowl, combine the egg yolk with 1 tablespoon water. Using a pastry brush, lightly brush the mixture on the top of each bun. Place buns in the lower third of the oven and reduce oven temperature to 400°F. Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack.

Ice the buns:
In a small bowl, combine the confectioners' sugar, remaining milk, and vanilla. Stir until smooth. When buns have cooled slightly, drizzle a horizontal line across each row of buns followed by a vertical line to form a cross on the crown of each bun.

Makes 12 buns

Twisted Noodle: Shredded Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Wild Mushrooms

Since I love-love-love Brussels sprouts, I'm always looking for a new way to cook them up and convert others to join the Brussels Sprouts Fan Club.  I've noticed that using bacon always helps, as most people would even eat cardboard as long as it was smeared with bacon grease.  But another personal favorite, mushrooms, also joins the party here, so I personally think this is pretty much the pinnacle of veggie side dishes.  Wait, what am I saying?  Side dish?  I ate this bad boy as my main dish, and it was delicious.

Note: I used cremini, oyster, and brown clamshell mushrooms, but go for anything that looks good at your store.  You can even use plain 'ol white mushrooms if you don't want to drop the extra cash for wild.  I used a 10 year old balsamic vinegar.  Try to use something halfway decent since you're pouring it all over your veggie.

Shredded Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Wild Mushrooms
Adapted from Twisted Noodle blog

¼ pound applewood smoked bacon, cut into batons
1 large shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ pound mixed wild mushrooms, sliced or separated
2 to 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound Brussels sprouts, thinly sliced
½ teaspoon sea salt, or to taste
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Brown bacon in a large skillet over medium heat.  Add the shallot and let cook for about 60 seconds.  Add the garlic and cook just until fragrant, about 30 seconds.  Add 2 tablespoons of butter to the skillet, and when melted, add the mushrooms.  Increase heat to medium high.  Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are golden and cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes.

Reduce heat to medium and add Brussels sprouts.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until Brussels sprouts are tender, 8 to 10 minutes.  Add remaining butter with the Brussels sprouts if the pan is too dry.

Stir in balsamic vinegar and cook another 2 to 4 minutes.  Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.  Remove from heat, and serve.

Makes 4 servings

Bon Appétit: Colcannon

Normally I'm more excited about St. Patrick's Day, but for some reason I can't muster much energy for cooking lately.  I just want to eat out of to-go containers and skip the big mess in the kitchen.  But I've been eyeing this recipe for colcannon, and it's the perfect time of year to give it a whirl, so I really can't justify going for some more reheated Tex-Mex.  These potatoes are creamy and delicious, and it certainly doesn't hurt that there's a great leek-garlic thing going on in the background.

Note:  I found that dumping the potatoes into the milk/cream gives you ZERO leverage for adjusting the liquidity of the recipe, so I say that you should add the milk to the potatoes a little at a time, not the other way around.  Because once you add the milk, you can't un-add it.

Colcannon
From Bon Appétit magazine, March 2016

5 medium Yukon Gold potatoes (about 1¾ pounds)
Sea salt
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
2 leeks, white and pale-green parts only, sliced in half lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 cups (packed) shredded savoy cabbage (from about ¼ large head), divided
1¼ cups milk
½ cup heavy cream
1½ teaspoons sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 scallion, thinly sliced

Cover potatoes with water in a small pot; season with salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat and simmer until a paring knife slides easily through the flesh, 30 to 40 minutes. Drain, let cool slightly, and peel.

Meanwhile, melt 4 tablespoons butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add leeks and cook, stirring frequently, until very soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until garlic is fragrant and leeks are just beginning to brown around the edges, about 3 minutes longer. Add 1 cup cabbage and cook, stirring constantly, until wilted. Add milk and cream and bring to a simmer.

Add potatoes and remaining 1 cup cabbage, then coarsely mash with a potato masher. Season with salt and pepper.

Transfer colcannon to a large serving bowl. Top with remaining 2 tablespoons butter and sprinkle with scallion.

Makes 4 servings

Mar-a-Lago Club: Key Lime Pie

My sister is currently 8+ months pregnant, and it is nearing her birthday.  We asked what she wanted for her birthday meal, and she told us Alaskan king crab legs, deviled eggs, chocolate fudge, and key lime pie.  If that's not a stereotypical pregnant woman meal, I'm not sure what is.  I think all we're missing is some pickles.  But I made sure to fulfill her wishes (everyone gets what they want on their birthday), and I used this fabulous pie recipe to do it.

Note:  You really should take the advice and freeze the pie briefly before cutting.  It's really too creamy to get a good slice otherwise, and it has a tendency to try and collapse as you're pulling it out of the pie plate.  Lesson learned.

Key Lime Pie
From Chef Jeff O'Neill at Mar-a-Lago Club, Palm Beach, FL

¾ pound graham crackers
4 tablespoons granulated sugar
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
¼ teaspoon sea salt
4 large egg yolks
Grated zest of 1 Persian lime
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
⅔ cup fresh key lime juice (from about 2 pounds key limes)
1 cup heavy cream, chilled
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Break up the graham crackers, place them in a food processor, and process into crumbs.  Add the melted butter, sugar, and salt, and pulse until combined.  Press the mixture into the bottom of a 9-inch pie pan, forming an even layer on the bottom, sides, and edge.  Bake the crust for 10 minutes.  Remove from the oven and allow the crust to cool.

While the crust is resting, in an electric mixer with the wire whisk attachment, whip the egg yolks and lime zest at high speed until fluffy, 5 or 6 minutes.  Gradually add the condensed milk and continue to whip until thick, 3 to 4 minutes longer.  Lower the mixing speed and slowly add the key lime juice until incorporated.

Pour the mixture into the crust and bake for 15 minutes, or until the filling has just set.  Cool on a wire rack, and then refrigerate for 20 minutes.

Whip the cream, powdered sugar, and vanilla until nearly stiff.  Evenly spread the whipped cream on top of the pie, and place in the freezer for 20 minutes prior to serving.

Makes 12 servings

Creole Contessa: Lemon Pepper Salmon with Lemon Butter Rice

It's a great time of year for citrus.  Every time I go to the grocery store lately, there are these big heaps of yellow and orange fruits.  Shiny nubbly skins just waiting to be peeled.  So of course I want to buy these beautiful ripe citrus, parading saucily before me.  But then you actually have to do something with them.  So I decided I would do a dinner with lemon.  Lemon juice in the rice, lemon slices on the fish, and lemon pepper seasoning all around.  It was fantastic and refreshing and just the right dinner for the beginning of spring.

Note:  The rice mixture is really more a result of digging up the odds and ends of the rice in my pantry than any sort of actual planning or intent.  However, the arborio added a really nice creaminess and the basmati stayed a little more firm, so the texture overall was the best of both worlds.

Lemon Pepper Salmon with Lemon Butter Rice
Adapted from Creole Contessa blog

Rice:
2 cups chicken broth
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 teaspoons dried parsley
½ teaspoon lemon pepper seasoning
⅛ teaspoon onion powder
⅛ teaspoon garlic powder
Juice of ½ lemon
½ cup basmati rice
¼ cup arborio rice
Sea salt

Fish:
1 pound salmon fillets
1 teaspoon lemon pepper seasoning
1 teaspoon Chef Paul Prudhomme's Blackened Redfish Magic seasoning or other Cajun seasoning
½ teaspoon garlic powder
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 lemon, sliced

For rice: In a medium pot, bring the chicken broth, butter, parsley, lemon pepper, onion powder, garlic powder, and lemon juice to a boil.  Add the two rices and stir well.  Reduce heat to low and cover.  Cook for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until almost all of the liquid is absorbed.  Turn off heat and leave the pot covered for another 5 to 10 minutes to allow the rice to absorb the remaining liquid.  Season with salt to taste.

For fish: Preheat oven to 375°F.  Spray a baking pan with cooking spray and lay the salmon fillets on the pan.  Sprinkle evenly with the lemon pepper, blackening seasoning, and garlic powder.  Cut butter into ¼-inch pats, and lay them evenly over the fish fillets.  Place the lemon slices evenly over the butter.  Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until fish is desired doneness and flakes easily with a fork.  Serve with the lemon rice.

Makes 4 servings