Tuesday, December 31, 2019

Gourmet: Beef Rib Roast with Garlic and Rosemary


Someone must have decided they only needed half of a rib roast, because I found myself the proud owner of the other half.  It was perfect size for one person to get a couple of meals, and it allowed me to try this fantastic recipe without sinking $50+ into a possible disaster.  The garlic-rosemary rub really gives the beef a great flavor, and the cooking instructions, when followed properly, yield a beautiful medium-rare roast.  This is also a refreshing change from quite a lot of turkey.

Beef Rib Roast with Garlic and Rosemary
From Gourmet magazine, unpublished December 2009 edition

12 garlic cloves
¼ cup chopped fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 (4-rib) standing beef rib roast (bone-in prime rib; 9 to 10 pounds)

Pulse garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper in a food processor until smooth, then rub all over roast.  Transfer to a rack set in a 13x9-inch roasting pan and marinate, chilled, at least 8 hours.

Let roast stand at room temperature 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 450°F with rack in middle.  Roast meat, fat side up, 20 minutes.  Reduce oven temperature to 350°F and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into center of meat (do not touch bone) registers 110°F, about 1½ to 2 hours more.  Transfer to a platter and let rest, uncovered, 30 minutes (temperature of meat will rise to about 130°F for medium-rare).

Makes 8 servings

Tuesday, December 24, 2019

Truffle Scalloped Potatoes


Love potatoes?  Want something over-the-top rich and creamy?  Boy, do I have a deal for you.  These potatoes are a wonderful side dish for a fancy holiday meal, and that's exactly what I used them for.  The sottocenere cheese has just enough truffle to make these flavorful without hitting anyone over the head.  These potatoes are absolutely getting made again.  And again.

Note: Sottocenere al tartufo is a semi-soft cheese with truffles in it.  It's the only way these potatoes get a truffle flavor, so it can't really be swapped out.

Truffle Scalloped Potatoes

3 large Russet potatoes (about 2½ pounds), peeled and thinly sliced on a mandoline
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
¾ teaspoon sea salt
¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 large clove garlic, minced
6 ounces sottocenere al tartufo cheese, shredded
2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated
2 cups heavy cream
½ cup half-and-half or milk
2 teaspoons chicken base, such as Better Than Bouillon

Butter a 2-quart baking dish.  Preheat oven to 375°F.

In the bottom of the dish, make a layer of potato slices, slightly overlapping each piece so that the bottom is completely covered.  Sprinkle with half of the flour, a third of the salt and pepper, half of the garlic, and a third of the two cheeses.  Repeat again for the second layer.  For the third layer, lay out the potato slices, and season with remaining salt and pepper.

Combine the cream, half-and-half, and chicken base and pour slowly over the top of the potatoes.  Sprinkle with the remaining cheeses.  Cover, place dish on a baking sheet to catch any spillover, and bake for 1½ hours.  Remove the lid and bake for another 15 minutes to brown.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Sunday, December 22, 2019

Steph Gaudreau: Roasted Chestnuts with Herbed Brown Butter


I'm pretty fascinated by chestnuts, especially with all of the holiday songs that mention them.  I drink the chestnut praline lattes at Starbucks every winter, but that's about all the chestnut I have in my life.  So I figured I would try a savory version and see what I thought.  The herb butter is really nice, but there's just something about the texture of these things that I can't get past.  They're not really a nut, more...mushy.  And my brain has a hard time with that.  However, if you absolutely love chestnuts, you'll probably enjoy these.

Note:  Admission time - I tried to roast the chestnuts and peel them.  I really did.  But the chestnuts wouldn't peel cleanly, and I didn't want to serve half-peeled chestnuts, so I ended up buying some already roasted, peeled chestnuts and using those.

Roasted Chestnuts with Herbed Brown Butter
From Steph Gaudreau

1 pound chestnuts
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or ghee
2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Using a sharp knife, score an X in the top of each chestnut. You don’t have to cut deep down into the meat, but make sure you pierce the skin. Chestnuts will explode in the oven if not properly scored. Roast the chestnuts on a baking sheet for 20 to 30 minutes, until the shells have peeled back. Allow to cool, and peel the shells off.

In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the ghee. If using butter, allow it to brown. Toss in the herbs and cook for 30 seconds until fragrant. Add the peeled chestnuts, season with salt and pepper, and stir well.

Cook for another couple of minutes and serve warm.

Makes 4 servings

Sunday, December 15, 2019

Lemons for Lulu: Toasted Coconut White Chocolate Fudge


I always thought I was a semi-sweet chocolate-only kind of fudge person.  I never thought that would change.  But now I'm questioning what I know about myself, because this fudge is unreal.  UNREAL.  I made this as a present for coworkers, and it was pretty much unanimously decreed as super delicious.  I highly recommend making this part of your yearly holiday preparations.

Note: I used Ghirardelli white chocolate chips.  I also actually poured this into two 8-inch disposable foil pans, and it worked well.  A 9-inch pan will get you really thick fudge.

Toasted Coconut White Chocolate Fudge
From Lemons for Lulu blog

1 cup sweetened shredded coconut
3 cups granulated sugar
¾ cup unsalted butter
1 (5-ounce) can evaporated milk
12 ounces white chocolate chips
1 (7-ounce) jar marshmallow creme
2 tablespoons cream of coconut (found in drink mixer section of your grocery store)
1 teaspoon coconut extract

Preheat oven to 350°F.  Spread the coconut out in a thin layer on a half sheet pan or cookie sheet.  Bake for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the coconut is light brown.  Remove the pan from the oven quickly and transfer the coconut to a dish so that it doesn't burn.

Prepare a pan by lining a 9-inch square baking pan with parchment paper. Set aside.

In a saucepan combine sugar, butter, and evaporated milk over medium heat. Bring mixture to a rapid boil, stirring constantly. Continue to cook for 4 minutes, or until a candy thermometer registers 234°F. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the chocolate and marshmallow fluff. Add in coconut cream, coconut (reserving 2 tablespoons), and extract. Pour into prepared pan, top with reserved toasted coconut.

Allow fudge to set completely before cutting into squares.

Saturday, December 14, 2019

Bon Appétit: Double Pecan Thumbprints


Each year around this time, we all beg my mother to make pecan sandies for our Christmas cookie stash.  They're absolutely delicious, but this year I couldn't help but wonder - what if I made a cookie that was even MORE stuffed with pecan deliciousness?  The answer is: eat them as often as possible.  There's something pretty fantastic about this cookie.  It's tender and bursting with flavor.  And the espresso powder in the frangipane really boosts this cookie up another level.

Double Pecan Thumbprints
From Bon Appétit magazine, December 2018

Frangipane
1¾ cups pecan halves, plus 26 additional for topping
⅓ cup granulated sugar
1 large egg white
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
2 teaspoons espresso powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon almond extract

Dough and Assembly
1¼ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon baking powder
¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
¼ cup granulated sugar
¾ cup powdered sugar, divided; plus more for serving (optional)
1 large egg yolk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract or paste

For the frangipane:
Preheat oven to 350°F.

Lightly toast pecans on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing halfway through, until slightly darkened in color and fragrant, 6 to 8 minutes. Let cool; set 1 cup pecans plus 26 of the prettiest halves aside for making the dough and final cookie.

Pulse granulated sugar and remaining ¾ cup pecans in a food processor until nuts are very finely ground (be careful to stop before they become a paste), 30 to 60 seconds. Add egg white and pulse just to blend, then add butter, espresso powder, salt, and almond extract. Pulse just until mixture is smooth and combined. Scrape frangipane into a small bowl and chill at least 30 minutes before using.

Do Ahead: Frangipane can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and keep chilled. You will have more than you need, but try slathering leftovers on toasted brioche and baking until lightly browned (sort of like an almond croissant). We guarantee you won’t be upset about it.

For the dough and assembly:
Pulse flour, salt, baking powder, and 1 cup reserved pecans in clean food processor until nuts are very finely ground, about 1 minute.

Beat butter, granulated sugar, and ¼ cup powdered sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add egg yolk and vanilla and beat until combined and no streaks remain. Reduce speed to low and add dry ingredients. Beat just until incorporated, about 1 minute. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and chill dough until it’s firm enough that you can scoop it and it will hold its shape, 30 to 45 minutes.

Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 350°F. Place ½ cup powdered sugar in a shallow bowl. Working in batches, scoop out tablespoonfuls of dough and roll into balls between your hands, then roll in powdered sugar, knocking off any excess. Transfer to 2 parchment-lined baking sheets as you work, spacing 2 inches apart.

Bake cookies until puffed but edges are still soft, 6 to 8 minutes. Carefully remove from oven and make an indent in the center of each cookie with the handle end of a wooden spoon or a similar heatproof object. Spoon a heaping ½-teaspoonful of frangipane into each and top with a pecan half from remaining reserved 26 halves. Return cookies to oven and continue to bake until edges are set and very lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes longer. Let cool on baking sheets.

Just before serving, dust cookies with more powdered sugar if desired.

Makes about 26 cookies

Friday, December 13, 2019

Bon Appétit: Pistachio Thumbprint Cookies


After many years of the same cookies every holiday season, I'm getting more and more into the unusual additions to the dessert table.  I mean, chocolate chip is fine for everyday cookie noshing, but I want something a little more interesting for a special occasion.  I saw these cookies in a post from Bon Appétit online, and having never tried pistachio cookies of any type, decided these were the ones.  I will say, the comments on this recipe reflect where I struggled a little with the filling, but I found that if you refrigerate the pistachio butter until it reaches a better non-melty consistency, then beat it into a smooth pipe-able paste, it all works out just fine.  And the Honey-Vanilla Sablé cookie part would be great alone anyway.

Pistachio Thumbprint Cookies
From Bon Appétit magazine, December 2017

⅓ cup finely chopped raw pistachios
1 log Honey-Vanilla Sablé Dough
½ cup raw whole pistachios
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Place pistachios in a small bowl. Unwrap dough and slice crosswise into 18 pieces and roll each between the palms of your hands into smooth balls. Press gently into pistachios to coat half of each ball, then place, pistachio side up, on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing about 2 inches apart.

Bake cookies until barely golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven and press the handle of a wooden spoon about three-quarters of the way down into the center of each cookie to make a round indentation, and wiggle in a circular motion to widen. Return to oven; bake until golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Let cool on baking sheet.

Process ½ cup raw pistachios, 2 tablespoons honey, and 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a food processor to a smooth paste.  Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat pistachio paste and butter in a small bowl until light and fluffy, about 30 seconds. If paste is too thin and oily, refrigerate until it firms up, then beat until fluffy.  Dollop 1 to 2 teaspoons pistachio mixture into the indentation in each cookie.

Honey-Vanilla Sablé Dough
2¼ cups all-purpose flour
¾ teaspoon ground cardamom
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup granulated sugar
2 vanilla beans, split lengthwise
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces, at room temperature
1 large egg yolk
¼ cup honey

Whisk flour, cardamom, and salt in a medium bowl to combine. Place sugar in a large bowl and scrape in vanilla seeds; save pods for another use. Massage mixture with your fingers until sugar looks like wet sand. Add butter and beat with an electric mixer on medium speed until mixture is smooth. Add egg yolk and honey; beat to combine. Reduce speed to low; add dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing well after each addition. Knead dough a couple of times to incorporate any dry bits in the bottom of the bowl.

Divide dough in half and pat into two 9-inch long logs. Wrap each log in parchment paper, then wrap tightly in plastic. Roll each log across work surface to make as round and regular as possible, then chill until firm, about 2 hours.

Thursday, November 28, 2019

Ina Garten: Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts


I know most people are not Brussels sprouts people, but my family most definitely is.  What's not to like about mini cabbages, especially when they're all roasty and fabulous?  So I'm always looking for a new recipe for these little guys.  This is one is pretty simple, but the balsamic vinegar syrup really balances everything out in a pretty delicious way.  Definitely a keeper.

Note: I did not have a very expensive syrupy balsamic vinegar, so I cooked ½ cup of semi-expensive balsamic vinegar and 1 teaspoon of honey over medium-high heat until it reached a syrupy 2 tablespoons and used all of it.

Balsamic-Roasted Brussels Sprouts
From Ina Garten

1½ pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half through the core
4 ounces pancetta, ¼-inch-diced
¼ cup good olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon syrupy balsamic vinegar

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Place the Brussels sprouts on a sheet pan, including some of the loose leaves, which get crispy when they're roasted. Add the pancetta, olive oil, 1½ teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper, toss with your hands, and spread out in a single layer.

Roast the Brussels sprouts for 20 to 30 minutes, until they're tender and nicely browned and the pancetta is cooked. Toss once during roasting. Remove from the oven, drizzle immediately with the balsamic vinegar, and toss again. Taste for seasonings, and serve hot.

Makes 6 servings

Tuesday, November 26, 2019

Bon Appétit: Why-Is-It-So-Good Gravy


I have never been a good gravy maker.  I can make pretty much anything else on the planet.  But not gravy.  Mine generally comes from a jar or not at all.  So I was a little bit hesitant to try, yet again, to make my own gravy, believing I would only end up being disappointed.  Luckily I was way off base.  This gravy, while a bit of work, is pretty darn delicious.  And don't let that MSG scare you off...it gives it that extra special something.  I finally don't feel like a gravy failure.

Update 11/2020: On remaking the gravy this year, I backed off a bit on the sherry vinegar.  When I originally made this gravy, I found that the vinegar was very pronounced, and I wanted the meaty flavor of the gravy to shine.  Using just 1 teaspoon seemed to work just fine.

Why-Is-It-So-Good Gravy
Adapted from Bon Appétit magazine, November 2019

3 pounds turkey and/or chicken wings, flats and drumettes separated
2 turkey or chicken necks (optional)
4 tablespoons canola oil, divided
2 heads of garlic, cut in half crosswise
2 large shallots, unpeeled, halved
1 (4-inch) piece ginger, scrubbed, thickly sliced
4 ounces crimini, shiitake, or white button mushrooms, torn into large pieces
2 teaspoons black peppercorns, lightly crushed
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
½ cup amontillado sherry
Handful of parsley or parsley stems
6 cups turkey stock or low-sodium chicken broth, warmed
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Accent powder
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper (optional)

Preheat oven to 450°F. Toss wings and necks in a large cast-iron skillet with 2 tablespoons oil until coated. Roast, tossing halfway through, until golden brown and starting to crisp, 25 to 35 minutes.

Remove wings and necks from oven and add garlic, shallots, ginger, mushrooms, peppercorns, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil to pan; toss to coat. Return to oven and roast, tossing halfway through, until wings are deeply browned and crisp and vegetables are browned, 30 to 40 minutes more.

Meanwhile, mash together flour and butter in a small bowl with your fingers or a fork until homogenous. Set beurre manié aside.

Remove skillet from oven and set on stovetop over medium-high heat. Add sherry and cook, stirring and scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until sherry is almost completely reduced, about 2 minutes.

Scrape wings, necks, and aromatics into a medium pot and add parsley and stock. Bring to a low simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce heat and simmer gently, skimming fat from surface occasionally and turning wings so both sides get a chance to be submerged, until liquid is flavorful, mahogany in color, and reduced by about one-third, 30 to 40 minutes.

Fish out wings and necks; discard. Pour mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a large measuring glass; discard solids. Rinse out pot and pour turkey mixture back in. Bring to a simmer over medium. Whisking constantly, add reserved beurre manié and whisk until completely incorporated. Simmer, whisking often and skimming any foam from surface, until gravy is thick enough to coat a spoon, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in vinegar and MSG. Taste gravy and season with salt and pepper if desired.

Do Ahead: Gravy (without vinegar and MSG) can be made 5 days ahead. Let cool, then cover and chill. Reheat over medium until simmering, then add vinegar and MSG.

Makes 8 to 10 servings

Sunday, November 24, 2019

Flavor Mosaic: Mango-Peach Habanero Wings


I'm not normally a wing person.  But I was looking for turkey wings and finding nothing.  So I bought these as backup.  But then I found the magical, mystical turkey wings.  So something had to be done.  And what do you do with wings, but slather them with delicious sauces?  And these were pretty darn good.  It would be nice if I could figure out a way to get them really crispy in the oven, but it's worth it to not have to deal with frying in oil.

Mango-Peach Habanero Wings
From Flavor Mosaic blog

24 chicken wings or drummettes with skin (approximately 3 pounds)
Salt and pepper
½ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon paprika
¾ cup mango habanero salsa
½ cup peach preserves
¼ cup chopped cilantro for garnish

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Pat wings dry with a paper towel and sprinkle with salt, pepper, garlic powder and paprika.  Place the wings on a foil covered baking sheet and cook in the preheated oven for about 45 minutes, turning once.

In a medium saucepan over low heat, stir together the mango habanero salsa and peach preserves until smooth and heated through.  Brush the mango-peach habanero glaze over each of the wings, both sides, and cook for about 8 to 10 minutes more.  Remove from the oven, brush with additional glaze, and place on a serving plate. Garnish with chopped cilantro.

Makes 6 servings

Monday, November 04, 2019

America's Test Kitchen: Best Baked Potato


I know, I know.  A recipe for a baked potato.  Seems a little ridiculous.  But I have to say, while it might be easy to make any old baked potato (hello, microwave!), it's not that easy to make an especially delicious baked potato.  With a nice salty skin.  And tender insides.  This, my friends, is that baked potato.

Best Baked Potatoes
From America's Test Kitchen as seen at The Splendid Table

Salt and pepper
4 (7- to 9-ounce) russet potatoes, unpeeled, each lightly pricked with fork in 6 places
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450°F. Dissolve 2 tablespoons salt in ½ cup water in large bowl. Place potatoes in bowl and toss so exteriors of potatoes are evenly moistened. Transfer potatoes to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet and bake until center of largest potato registers 205°F, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Remove potatoes from oven and brush tops and sides with oil. Return potatoes to oven and continue to bake for 10 minutes.

Remove potatoes from oven and, using paring knife, make 2 slits, forming an X, in each potato. Using clean dish towel, hold ends and squeeze slightly to push flesh up and out. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings