Sunday, November 12, 2006
Emeril Lagasse: Southern Cooked Greens
While I am certainly a southerner, I wasn't raised to eat that way, unfortunately (fortunately for my waist?). My mom was taught to cook by her mother, who in turn was taught to cook by her mother-in-law, and all of those dishes were German and Irish. Nothing southern there. Just lots of meat and potatoes. And more potatoes. So when I moved to Texas, I was introduced to a whole new world of delicious soul food. The kind that makes you feel all warm and happy down in the pit of your being. A half a pound of bacon does the body good.
Southern Cooked Greens
From Emeril Lagasse
½ pound raw bacon, chopped
3 cups yellow onions, julienned
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pinch cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 (12-ounce) bottle Dixie beer, or other lager
¼ cup rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon molasses
6 pounds greens, such as mustard, collard, or turnip
In a large pot, render the bacon until crispy, about 5 minutes. Add the onions and cook for about 6 to 7 minutes or until the onions are wilted. Season the mixture with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Add the shallots and garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the beer, vinegar, and molasses. Stir in the greens, a third at a time, pressing the greens down as they start to wilt. Cook the greens, uncovered, for about 1 hour and 15 minutes.
Makes 8 servings
Monday, October 23, 2006
Steak Frites: Pommes de Terre au Reblochon (Twice Baked Potatoes with Reblochon Cheese)
Such a fantastic pork dish last night needed something equally fabulous on the side, so I decided to try some twice-baked potatoes, French style. The original recipe called for Reblochon cheese, but since brie was an acceptable substitute, and I didn't want to spend my afternoon in the grocery store, I grabbed a wedge of creamy brie. The crispy edges on the potato and the creamy center were magnificent.
Pommes de Terre au Reblochon (Twice Baked Potatoes with Reblochon Cheese)
From Steak Frites by Pierre-Yves Chupin
½ Reblochon cheese, or 4 ounces brie or Monterey Jack
4 thin slices bacon
4 large baking potatoes
Olive oil for brushing
4 tablespoons (½ stick) salted butter
Cut the cheese, with its rind, into pieces. Chop the bacon and fry in a little oil or broil. Scrub clean and dry the potatoes. Brush them with a little olive oil and cook them in the oven for 1 hour at 425°F, being sure to turn them halfway through. Remove the baked potatoes from the oven and cut in half lengthwise. Carefully scoop out three quarters of each potato from its skin. Preheat the oven broiler. Place a large piece of butter in each half potato, then place them under the broiler for 10 minutes until they are golden brown. Remove from the broiler and stuff each half potato with a little cheese, followed by some chopped bacon and scooped out potato flesh. Put back under the broiler for a few minutes, then serve immediately.
Makes 4 servings
Sunday, October 22, 2006
Steak Frites: Porc aux Champignons (Pork with Mushrooms)
Porc aux Champignons (Pork with Mushrooms)
From Steak Frites by Pierre-Yves Chupin
2 (14-ounce) pork tenderloins
Canola oil, for frying
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
18 ounces white button mushrooms
1 bay leaf
2 cloves
3 medium shallots
8 baby white onions
1 sprig thyme
1 cup light cream
Cut the pork tenderloins into large pieces. Heat a little olive oil in a skillet and brown the meat on all sides. Season with salt and pepper. Wipe the mushrooms, slice them thinly, and add to the skillet with the bay leaf and cloves. Peel the shallots and baby onions. Slice the shallots and add them to the skillet with the whole onions and the sprig of thyme. Cover and cook for 1 hour over a gentle heat. Add the cream and bring to a boil, stirring constantly so the sauce thickens. Season to taste.
Makes 4 servings
Thursday, October 19, 2006
Chicken Stew with Sage Dumplings

It's finally that time of year when the cold fronts move through Texas and cool us off a little. But when those fronts move through and the air gets a little crisp in the mornings, it makes me want to eat something very special that my mother only makes once in a blue moon. She has withheld the recipe for this particular treat for all of my 28 years until I have finally figured out how to make it. And what is this delectable treat that makes my mouth water at its name? Chicken and Dumplings. Yes, something so simple makes my stomach growl in anticipation hours prior to the meal. And now I finally have a recipe.
When making the dumplings, you have several options. Option 1: Cut the dough into strips 1x4". Option 2: Use a 1½" biscuit cutter to make little rounds of dough. Option 3 (the one I used): Use a fancy Japanese cutter to make little flowers. All of these will yield the same delicious results. My mom uses option 1 since it's the easiest.
Chicken Stew with Sage Dumplings
1 (5-pound) stewing chicken
1 rib celery (including leaves), cut in thirds
1 small onion, quartered
1 carrot, cut in half lengthwise, then into thirds
15 leaves fresh sage
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
¾ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup whole milk
8 large leaves fresh sage, chopped finely
3 tablespoons cornstarch
Remove any internal organs from chicken and place in a large pot. Stuff cavity with 10 sage leaves. Add celery, onion, carrot, and 5 remaining sage leaves to the pot. Add water to cover chicken. Heat to boiling over high heat, then reduce heat to medium and simmer for an hour and a half, or until chicken is tender.
Remove chicken from broth and let cool. When chicken is cool to the touch, remove skin and discard. Pull meat from the bone in finger-size chunks and set aside. Discard bones (or use them to make chicken broth for other dishes). Cool chicken broth and refrigerate until fat collects on the top. Strain the fat from the top and then return the broth to the heat. Add chicken back to the broth.
Combine flour, baking powder, salt, and sage in a medium bowl. Heat butter and milk over medium heat until milk is hot and butter is melted. Pour over dry ingredients and stir with a fork just until moistened. Turn out onto a floured surface and, using a floured rolling pin, roll to 1/4" thickness. Cut into strips, rounds, or other shape. Bring broth to a boil. Drop dumplings in one at a time in different areas of the pot so that the dumplings do not stick while cooking. When all of the dumplings have been added, let the broth boil for another five minutes, then turn down the heat to medium.
In a separate bowl, mix cornstarch with broth from the pot to form a thin paste. Add back to the pot and stir until the whole mixture thickens moderately. Serve hot.
Sunday, October 15, 2006
Bento Boxes: Gyūniku Dango (Glazed Beef Meatballs), Kinoko no Nimono (Quick Braised Mushrooms), Kabocha no Nimono (Simmered Pumpkin)
Since I had so much fun with the first bento box, I figured I'd go for another fun lunch for the week. I managed to find some great kabocha pumpkin at the store, so that was definitely going in. I decided to try some meatballs this time, and they're delicious with the sweet glaze.
Gyūniku Dango (Glazed Beef Meatballs)
From Bento Boxes: Japanese Meals on the Go by Naomi Kijima
¼ onion, minced
½ teaspoon cooking oil
3 ounces ground beef
2 teaspoons beaten egg
2 tablespoons breadcrumbs
Salt and pepper
Oil for deep frying
2 teaspoons soy sauce
½ teaspoon each granulated sugar, mirin, and sake
3 tablespoons water
4 quail eggs, hard-boiled
Sauté the onion in the oil until translucent. Let cool. Combine the ground beef, cooked onion, egg, breadcrumbs, salt, and pepper. Knead well. Form into small balls. Deep fry at 340°F for 2 to 3 minutes until well browned. Place meatballs in a pan with all remaining ingredients except the quail eggs. Boil 4 to 5 minutes. Place the meatballs on short skewers, alternating with quail eggs.
Kinoko no Nimono (Quick Braised Mushrooms)
From Bento Boxes: Japanese Meals on the Go by Naomi Kijima
½ tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon mirin
3 tablespoons water
¾ ounce shimeji mushrooms, with stalks
Bring liquid ingredients to a boil and add the shimeji. Cook briefly, then drain.
Kabocha no Nimono (Simmered Pumpkin)
From Bento Boxes: Japanese Meals on the Go by Naomi Kijima
3 ounces pumpkin (kabocha squash)
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
Dice pumpkin in ¾-inch cubes. Shave off the sharp edges. Boil in a small amount of water for 4 to 5 minutes. Add the sugar and continue cooking. When tender, drizzle with soy sauce.
Sunday, October 08, 2006
Bento Boxes: Hotate no Teriyaki (Teriyaki Scallops), Kabu no Shoyuzuke (Soy Turnip), Yamagobo (Gobo in Vinegar)
What could be more fun than a bento for lunch? The answer, in case you're wondering, is nothing. I actually look forward to my lunch if there's a little box full of goodies waiting for me. These are two bentos that I made based on recipes from Bento Boxes by Naomi Kijima. Give them a try and see how much more fun your lunch can be.
Hotate no Teriyaki (Teriyaki Scallops)
5 large sea scallops
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon sake
1 tablespoon water
Trim the scallops. Bring the remaining ingredients to a boil. Add the scallops and cook 3 to 4 minutes until well-glazed.
Kabu no Shoyuzuke (Soy Turnip)
1 turnip with leaves
1 teaspoon soy sauce
Remove the turnip leaves, leaving ½-inch of stem. Peel the turnip and cut into wedges. Toss with the soy sauce.
Yamagobo (Gobo in Vinegar)
1 (4¾-inch) piece gobo (burdock root), peeled
⅓ cup dashi stock
1½ tablespoons white vinegar
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
Salt
Roasted sesame seeds
Cut the gobo crosswise into 3 pieces. Slice lengthwise and blanch. Stir in the dashi, vinegar, sugar, and salt. Cook for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds.
Sunday, September 24, 2006
The Dallas Morning News: Fresh Broccoli Salad with Craisins and Pecans
Despite the fact that I have a deep and abiding love for broccoli, when my mother first pulled this recipe out of the paper, I was less than enthusiastic. I mean, raw broccoli is just so...bitter. And how could you possibly cover that up? Well, it's possible. This may now be my favorite salad. I whip this bad boy up whenever I need to bring something green to a potluck. And I get to watch peoples' faces as they realize how delicious it is. And of course, BACON.
Fresh Broccoli Salad with Craisins and Pecans
Adapted from The Dallas Morning News, 7 June 2006
¾ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup granulated sugar
1½ tablespoons soy sauce
4 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 (12-ounce) bags broccoli florets (about 8 cups)
1 cup Craisins (dried cranberries)
1 (11-ounce) can Mandarin oranges, drained
½ cup coarsely chopped pecans, toasted
½ cup sliced green onion
12 pieces bacon, cooked crisp and diced
In a small mixing bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, sugar, soy sauce, and vinegar. Chill.
Bring 4 cups water to a rolling boil. Put the broccoli florets in a colander and pour the water slowly over them to blanch. When cool, break apart larger florets so they are all a similar size.
Combine florets with Craisins and oranges, if using, and enough dressing to lightly coat. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Just before serving, fold in pecans, green onion, and bacon.
Makes 10 servings
Thursday, September 14, 2006
Food Network: Joe's Screaming Stuffed Jalapeño Poppers
It's that time of year again. Time for the obsessive watching of your favorite college teams pummeling each other on the gridiron. And what would a college football game be without some serious tailgate food? I've never actually been to a real live tailgate party in the parking lot, but we had a contest at work to see which team could make the best replica. I must say that my team won the contest, and I think it was partly due to the amazing stuffed jalapeños that I presented. I've also never eaten stuffed jalapeños before, but I was assured these are scrumptious. I thought they had just the right level of spice, and I must admit the bacon really made them melt in my mouth. If you want a much spicier pepper, you can leave the seeds and membranes intact. Enjoy!
Joe's Screaming Stuffed Jalapeño Poppers
From Food Network
20 whole jalapeños
2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened
4 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, finely chopped
2 to 3 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped
Sea salt
1 pound thinly sliced bacon
Cut a slit down each jalapeño pepper and gently remove seeds and membrane without breaking pepper open. Set peppers aside.
Beat cream cheese until smooth and creamy. Fold in garlic, tomatoes, basil, and salt to taste. Using a small spoon or pastry bag, stuff each pepper with cheese mixture until full, but not overflowing. Cut bacon slices in half and wrap half a piece around each pepper, placing seam under the pepper. If you really like bacon, you could use a whole slice for each pepper, but you would need more bacon than indicated above. Place wrapped peppers on a foil lined baking sheet. Set oven to broil, and place peppers under the heat for about seven minutes or until bacon is cooked and peppers gently blister. Serve with lots of water!
Monday, September 11, 2006
Classic Japanese Cooking Course: Japanese Miso-Mayonnaise Salmon
I'd had this really good salmon dish at some Asian buffets, but I could never figure out the recipe. I knew it had miso paste in the topping, but beyond that I was clueless. Well, it turns out the topping is a mixture of mayonnaise and white miso paste. The sauce is spread on top of the salmon, and then shredded cheddar cheese is sprinkled on top along with a little bit of Japanese seven spice powder. The whole thing is cooked in an aluminum foil packet to keep in the moisture. While it sounds a bit icky to have mayo on your fish, it keeps the salmon moist and creamy. Also, the trick is to use Japanese mayonnaise which has a different texture and flavor than the American stuff. Try Kewpie brand.
Note: I had an extra leek hanging around, so I sautéed thin slices in some butter and put it under the salmon before cooking. Delicious.
Japanese Miso-Mayonnaise Salmon
Adapted from Classic Japanese Cooking Course by Masaki Ko
4 (6-ounce) salmon fillets, skin on, bones removed
½ cup Japanese mayonnaise (such as Kewpie)
3 tablespoons white miso paste
1 ounce sharp Cheddar cheese, grated
Seven spice powder (shichimi)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Mix the mayonnaise and miso paste until well combined. Cut four pieces of foil large enough to enclose each fillet completely. Place one salmon fillet on each piece of foil. Spread the sauce evenly over the tops of the fillets. Sprinkle with the Cheddar cheese and seven spice powder. Fold the foil tightly to enclose the fish fillets completely and prevent leakage. Place the packets on a cookie sheet and bake for 10 minutes. Open the foil and bake another 5 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and starting to brown. Serve immediately.
Makes 4 servings
Note: I had an extra leek hanging around, so I sautéed thin slices in some butter and put it under the salmon before cooking. Delicious.
Japanese Miso-Mayonnaise Salmon
Adapted from Classic Japanese Cooking Course by Masaki Ko
4 (6-ounce) salmon fillets, skin on, bones removed
½ cup Japanese mayonnaise (such as Kewpie)
3 tablespoons white miso paste
1 ounce sharp Cheddar cheese, grated
Seven spice powder (shichimi)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Mix the mayonnaise and miso paste until well combined. Cut four pieces of foil large enough to enclose each fillet completely. Place one salmon fillet on each piece of foil. Spread the sauce evenly over the tops of the fillets. Sprinkle with the Cheddar cheese and seven spice powder. Fold the foil tightly to enclose the fish fillets completely and prevent leakage. Place the packets on a cookie sheet and bake for 10 minutes. Open the foil and bake another 5 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and starting to brown. Serve immediately.
Makes 4 servings
Thursday, September 07, 2006
Beverly's Restaurant: Fingerling Potato Salad with Stilton Cheese
So last weekend was my dad's birthday, and we decided to cook him a meal instead of dragging him to a restaurant. He's not a big fan of strange new tastes or odd smells and colors, so I had to go easy on him. We decided to be very traditional and have rotisserie chicken, deviled eggs, and potato salad. But not just any potato salad. A potato salad made with multi-colored fingerling potatoes and Stilton blue cheese. Because why make a regular potato salad when you can totally go over the top?
The recipe comes from this great little restaurant halfway between Athens, TX and Palestine, TX. It's called Beverly's Restaurant, and it's inside of BK Ranch's main building. I loved it at first bite. Luckily the recipe was online for me to plunder.
Fingerling Potato Salad with Stilton Cheese
From Beverly's Restaurant, Athens, TX
1 pound fingerling potatoes of various colors
2 ounces Stilton blue cheese, crumbled
3 slices applewood smoked bacon, cooked and crumbled
2 tablespoons minced shallot
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley
2 teaspoons finely chopped chives
4 tablespoons olive oil
Juice of one lemon
Sea salt and ground white pepper
Place potatoes in a pot and cover with cold water; season well with salt. Cook potatoes over high heat until almost cooked in the center. Pierce potato with a toothpick to test for doneness. Remove the potatoes from the pot and spread on a baking sheet; place in refrigerator to cool. Once potatoes are cool, slice them and place in a mixing bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients and toss salad to mix. Season with salt and white pepper.
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