Au Pied de Cochon: Creamy Smoked Trout Pappardelle

I keep seeing smoked trout at my local fancy grocery store, and I keep meaning to try it with...something.  Except I keep passing it by.  So when I saw this recipe (originally made with a different smoked fish), I decided this was the time to try it.  I'm a super big fan of smoked salmon, but I wasn't sure what I was going to get with this dish.  Fortunately, it's a creamy, smoky bowl of goodness, although it can be a bit heavy and rich.  I recommend a nice fresh salad on the side.

Creamy Smoked Trout Pappardelle

Adapted from Au Pied de Cochon restaurant, Montreal, Canada, as seen in Come In, We're Closed

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 shallot, finely chopped
½ cup dry white wine

2 thyme sprigs

1 quart heavy whipping cream

1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Freshly squeezed lemon juice, to taste

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 pound fresh pappardelle

8 ounces smoked trout, in chunks

2 tablespoons minced parsley or chives

Heat a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat.  Melt the butter and, when frothy, add the shallots and cook until translucent, about 2 minutes.  Add the white wine and reduce until no liquid remains.  Add the thyme and cream.  After bringing to a boil, lower the heat and briskly simmer until the liquid has reduced by half, about 20 minutes.  Stir occasionally (especially towards the end) to avoid scorching.

Add the cheese and stir until melted.  Season with a squeeze of lemon, salt, and pepper.  Keep warm but do not over-reduce or the cream will break.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Warm your guests' pasta bowls in a low oven - this dish congeals quickly on cold plates and tastes best warm.  Boil the fresh pasta to al dente (about 4 minutes), then drain.  Portion the pasta into the warm bowls and layer a few slices of trout on top; spoon the sauce over everything, and sprinkle with parsley or chives.  Serve immediately.

Makes 6 servings

Bobby Flay: Ancho and Coffee-Rubbed Filet Mignon with Ancho-Mushroom Sauce

I have never owned a grill, at least not one that I could use living in an apartment with an overzealous fire marshal for a decade, so I've tended to shy away from making steak.  However, this steak is definitely an exception.  I originally learned about this recipe in a cooking class a million years ago, but I loved it then, and I'm still a fan.  The sauce will taste pretty spicy from the ancho chiles, but once it joins the steak, everything just...works.

Note: For the mushrooms, I used blue foot, hedgehog, and blue oyster because those are the ones that looked best at the time.

Ancho and Coffee-Rubbed Filet Mignon with Ancho-Mushroom Sauce
Adapted from Bobby Flay's Mesa Grill, as seen in Bon Appétit magazine, September 2005

4 (1½-inch thick) filet mignon steaks (each about 12 ounces), at room temperature
2 tablespoons olive oil
Spice Rub (below)

Mushroom Sauce (below)

6 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, divided use

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Sprinkle both sides of the steaks generously with Spice Rub. Heat large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat.  Add olive oil.  Add steaks and sear until brown and crusty, 2 minutes per side.  Then insert a meat thermometer and transfer the pan to the oven. Cook until desired doneness, about 10 minutes for medium-rare.  The thermometer should register 130-140°F for medium rare, 140-150°F for medium.

Meanwhile, rewarm Mushroom Sauce.  Mix in  4 tablespoons cilantro.  Thin sauce with remaining reduced broth by tablespoonfuls, if desired.

Transfer steaks to plates.  Spoon sauce over.  Sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons cilantro.  

Makes 4 servings

Spice Rub

2 tablespoons ancho chile powder
2 tablespoons instant espresso powder
2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1½ teaspoons dried oregano
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Mix all ingredients in a small bowl. Set aside.  (Can be made one week ahead of time.  Cover and store at room temperature.)

Mushroom Sauce

3 dried ancho or pasilla chiles

6 cups chicken broth

3 tablespoons olive oil

1½ cups chopped red onion

4 garlic cloves, chopped

1½ pounds assorted fresh wild mushrooms, such as shiitake, cremini, and oyster, thickly sliced if large

2 cups dry red wine

Cayenne pepper

Place chiles in medium bowl.  Pour enough boiling water over to cover.  Let soak until chiles soften, turning occasionally, about 30 minutes.  Transfer chiles to a blender along with ½ cup soaking liquid.  Blend until smooth.  (Puree can be made 3 days ahead.  Transfer to bowl.  Cover and chill.)

Boil broth in large saucepan over high heat until reduced to 2 cups, about 25 minutes.  Set reduced broth aside.

Heat oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat.  Add onions; sauté until beginning to soften, about 4 minutes.  Add garlic and stir 1 minute.  Add mushrooms.  Sauté until brown and tender and almost all juices have evaporated, about 9 minutes.  Add wine and boil until almost all wine has evaporated, about 9 minutes.  Mix in chile puree and 1½ cups reduced chicken broth.  Simmer 1 minute to blend flavors.  Season sauce with cayenne, salt, and pepper.  (Can be made 1 day ahead.  Cover, chill sauce and remaining reduced broth separately.)